Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Winding Down Another Winter of Cruising


Wednesday 20th April
Stayed another day at anchor in Lake Worth

Thursday 21st April
Anchors up and motor up the ICW and through the pesky bridges that only open at certain times - mostly wrong for sailboats and their leisurely pace.

We anchored for the night in Peck Lake as we have several times before.  But this time we took the dinghy ashore to the barrier island and spent some time on the ocean side.

There's a beautiful beach and the water was wonderful.  One last ocean swim on our cruise.


Friday 22nd April
Anchors up and onwards past Stuart - almost a disaster as I nearly steered us through the wrong span of a bridge - well you're allowed one stupid thing on your birthday.

We didn't get to the St Lucie Lock on time for the 1 pm opening but we did get through an hour later when a government boat came the other way.  Our dock reservation wasn't until the next day so we anchored for the night just west of the lock.

Saturday 23rd April
Onwards to Indiantown Marina and the end of our trip.

Uncovered the RV and drove it out of storage.  Just to make sure there was no bugs living in it I set off a 'bug bomb'.  Turns out it didn't kill everything.

To belatedly celebrate my birthday we went to Dee Stefano's with John and Rejeanne and the coconut encrusted grouper with mangoes and chilies was divine.

Sunday 24th April
Started the miserable task of moving stuff from one living space to another and our first night of air-conditioned sleep in the RV

Monday 25th April
Down with one sail and more stuff moved from the boat to the RV.  We were supposed to have the boat hauled the next day but working in the sun and the unusually high heat slows down the process by a factor of two.

Tuesday 26th April
Dinghy on deck and finalised getting the boat ready for hauling.  We took pity on John and Rejeanne and they came to sleep in the RV.

Wednesday 27th April
The old gal gets hauled and her bottom washed.


Bilbo hauled too, so to celebrate we had supper at Dee Stefano's one last time - should have had that coconut grouper again.

Thursday 28th April
John and Rejeanne left for points north and we carried on getting things off the boat and getting the RV ready for travel.

Friday 29th April

More boat preparation

Saturday 30th April
Getting close to finishing

Sunday 1st May
Getting really, really close

Monday 2nd May
Boat ready to be left and RV ready to roll.


Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Back in the U.S, Back in the U.S, Back in the U.S. of A.


Friday 1st April
It’s a day to move on and make a big hop over to the north of the Berry islands.  Since leaving Spanish Wells at night would be tricky and there’s a closer jump-off point, we fuel and watered up and headed for Royal Island.

Royal Island is under private development but it was still possible to go ashore with Buddy one last time before getting some sleep.

Saturday 2nd April
Neither of our alarms functioned but fortunately we had left the radio on and  Bilbo hailed us at quarter to two in the morning and it was soon up anchor and off through the narrow rocky exit (in the pitch dark - intimidating).

Not enough wind to sail – as per usual.  After 15 hours and 74 miles we drop anchor off the western side of Great Harbour Cay.

Sunday 3rd April
Took a dinghy ride into Great Harbour and the marina.  Friendly place, they gave us the Internet key and offered us a discount on docking.

Monday 4th April
The waves are building from the south and we have no protection so we decide to head into the marina.
Inside the incredibly well protected harbor there’s quite a setup with dockominiums (condominiums with their own dock) lining one side and the marina and facilities on the other.


We met more Italian circumnavigators: Marco and Deborah and had a happy hour aboard their boat, Kiribati, after taking dinghy ride and walk to the stores.  Not a whole lot available on Great Harbour Cay.
.
Tuesday 5th April
We’re glad we’re in the marina.


The wind is quite strong and in the totally wrong direction for anchoring out. 

Just as we head over to Kiribati again for an Italian supper, a thunderstorm rolls through with torrential rain.
We had great supper with lots of food and much wine.


As you can’t really see our hosts in the picture above here they are:


Wednesday 6th April
We’re all still in the marina and surprise, they have manatees in the Bahamas too.


They came up to the dock (there were three of them) looking for water.


Once they get that water hose they don’t quit.


Unfortunately these big gentle creatures should stay well away from humans.  It’s rare to see an older one that isn’t damaged by a boat propeller.


One of our fellow boaters went for a swim with them.


It’s happy hour aboard Bilbo this time.

Thursday 7th April
Time to move out of the marina ready to make another long night-time hop. We had an early supper and tried to get some sleep.

10:30 pm and we’re up and by 11 we’re heading out.

Friday 8th April
As usual, the sails are up but the engine on and it took twelve and half hours of rocking and rolling to get to Lucaya, Grand Bahama and a quiet little anchorage inside the Bell Channel.
After a couple of hours sleep we are ready to go again and we go for the fish fry at a nearby marina – very good and we get to see Kiribati again.

Saturday 9th April
Lucaya has a real supermarket so we took a walk there and a bus ride back to re-provision.
It’s Rejeanne’s birthday so we all go out for supper at an Irish Pub (?) and have fish and chips – Lucaya really caters to tourists.


Sunday 10th April
On the way to the supermarket the day before, we had met Patricia from Nova Scotia and we got invited to drop by her and her husband’s (Mark) boat, Morning Tide, for a chat.  This we did and left with a promise to visit them when we are in the Maritimes later this year.

Monday 11th April
Went down to the beach near the tourist area which is right opposite the apartment block we stayed in five years ago.


I had a swim in the lovely cool sea but black clouds were rolling in so we returned to boat.

Tuesday 12th April
The day before John and Rejeanne had made arrangements to go to a time-share spiel and we’d agreed to join them.

We were a little apprehensive about the whole thing as we know what high pressure tactics they use to persuade you to buy.

Turns out we were Christy’s very first customers and she was way more nervous than we were.  She was a really nice person and we enjoyed talking to her.


 We got a free breakfast first were we just talked about ourselves and our lifestyle which I’m sure isn’t that typical.  Then we took a look at the apartments and the facilities – really, really nice.
They have their own beach,


restaurants, swimming pools etc.

Then their sales stuff began but we deflected the pitch by saying we really wouldn’t use a timeshare right now in our lives.

However, we thought (and John and Rejeanne agreed with us) that it’s actually not that bad a deal, the advantage being that you can ‘buy’ time in resorts all over the world at a very reasonable rate.

So we picked up our free T-shirts and $50 restaurant meal coupon and headed back to the boat.
That night we headed off with John and Rejeanne and our coupons for our Spanish Fusion meal at the Agave Restaurant and it was very good.


Wednesday 13th April
Lucaya has a famous Wednesday night fish-fry which takes place a walk along the beach from where we are anchored.  And when they deep fry fish for these things it’s the whole fish, head, tail and all.
We had fun with all the other tourists (and locals).


Thursday 14th April
A day just hanging on the boat.

Friday 15th April
Another trip to the City Market and then over to Bilbo for a weather pow-wow about leaving.

Saturday 16trh April
Our private anchorage is no more; three more boats arrive.  One from Quebec and two from France.


We thought we may have seriously insulted one of the boats.  He anchored too close and Carol yelled “Vous ete trop proche!”  Turns out proche sound a lot like poche which means something else entirely.

Sunday 17th April
We had breaksfast in Lucaya to look at the weather on the Internet and discuss departure.  We all decide early tomorrow is it.   So we head back to the boat and prepare for departure, eat early and go to bed a 7.

Monday 18th April
By 3 am we’re heading out into the ocean and towards the Gulf Stream.  It’s a full moon and almost like daylight.  Sails are up but the engines are running.

It was rolly, but not too bad.  However, we’ve had enough of these long crossings.  They’re so deadly boring.  The engine makes conversation difficult and the boat motion makes reading or anything like that not an option plus one has to be paying attention all the time for passing cruise and cargo ships.
However, even unpleasant things come to an end and we’re heading towards the Lake Worth inlet with thunderstorms on either side of us but magically it hardly even rains on us while we anchor.

After a celebratory drink and munchies aboard Incognita, we all hit the sack early.

Tues 19th April
First item on our agenda back in the US is to clear customs and immigration and renew our cruising permits.
It’s a dinghy ride to Riviera Beach Marina and then a short walk and an hour so later we’re done and having brunch at the marina restaurant.  Blackened mahi-mahi – yum!

Back to the boats and then up to North Lake Worth where there’s a Publix!!!

Friday, April 1, 2011

Wending our way back north (and a little bit East)

Blog according to Carol:

Saturday, March 12th
Took a dinghy ride to Emerald Rock just south of the park headquarters.  John and Lynton snorkeled  whilst Rejeanne and I walked a trail to look at some ruins. 

The path was very tortuous and rocky, so we turned back as soon as we came across the ruins.


Sunday, March 13th
The time change took us all by surprise.  I thought it always occurred around the end of the month.

We decided to walk another trail on the island where we saw an interesting interplay in a shallow tongue of water.  A small light grey ray, surrounded by an entourage of small fish, was intent on trying to dig itself into a hole.  However, this was obviously the territory of a small, feisty crab about 2 inches in diameter and kept taking a run at the ray.  The ray finally lumbered off, but its entourage then went after the crab until it took off.  High drama!

Monday, March 14th
John was now suffering from a pulled muscle round his ribs – a result of the mooring ball debacle.  So today we left him to recover and went over to a beach with Marilyn and Victor from “Whisper”.  The waves were choppy and the dinghies tried to dislodge themselves a couple of times.
Then back to “Bilbo” to have a weather pow-wow.  It looks as though Thursday will be the best day to leave.

Tuesday, March 15th
Ate something I shouldn’t have done and now I must think about starting  the antibiotic treatment (groan!).
Our friends, Mike and Judy, on “Sea Sharp” just arrived yesterday, so Lynton went snorkeling with them.
There was a special happy hour on the beach at 5:00 p.m.

Buddy came along too where he enthralled a little girl.  She was missing her dog back home.

Wednesday, March 16th
Not a very nice day – dark grey clouds, windy and threatening rain.  The high spot was an evening aboard Sea Sharp .


By the way, we did get a whole lot sillier later on – dancing to the oldies.

Thursday, March 17th
Left Warderick Wells around 7:00 a.m.  The day turned out to be sunny and the wind pretty good.  We arrived at Rock Sound in Eleuthera mid-afternoon and anchored in a large bay.


Friday, March 18th
Went to the local supermarket to stock up again on groceries.  We were getting pretty low as there is nothing at Warderick Wells – not even a water supply.

Went to the local tikki hut with a view of boats in the harbour


for a happy hour drink (non-alcoholic for me of course due to the anti-biotics) as they had been very helpful in giving info about the town etc.  (Have to pump funds into the local economies sometimes!!).

Saturday, March 19th
Went to the local farmers’ market and bought a few vegetables.  A restful day for me for me after that while Lynton got connected to the internet.

The wind is supposed to pick up tomorrow (around 26 knots) and then decrease after one day.  It has been very quiet here up to now, with just the roosters waking us up at around 4:00 a.m.!!

Blog according to Lynton:


20-Mar-11 – Sun
That wind built just like ‘Windfinder’ said it would – don’t know how they do it but that Windfinder is the best way of predicting weather (apologies to any Chris Parker fans).

We all took a walk ashore and visited Ocean Hole Park in the town.  Ocean holes are inland lakes that are fed directly with seawater through tunnels.


Monday, 21st March
It’s a cloudy day with strong winds so it’s a day for boat chores like getting more water and diesel.

Tuesday 22nd March
The wind has dropped (as predicted) so time for a bit of shopping with John and Rejeanne – Carol definitely isn’t feeling so good.

In the afternoon I accompanied John and Rejeanne and we visited the local caves.  They’re not as extensive as the ones on Long Island but certainly have their own character.


The more amazing thing there is the tree roots that come down through holes in the rock above and drop tens of feet to the floor of the cave and carry on digging into earth.


Wednesday  23rd March
Time to move on further up the coast of Eleuthera.

We had very little wind so we motored all the way to Hatchett Bay and Alice Town.
I took a walk around the town with John and Rejeanne and we stopped for Internet and a beer with a view of the very well protected harbour.


Thursday 24th March
Up before light we negotiated the (very) narrow exit


out of Hatchett Bay in the early morning light to try and reach Current Cut at slack tide.  We made very good time motor-sailing all the way but still had to battle over 3 knots of current to get through.  3 knots doesn’t sound much unless you only go about five and a half – you lose your ability to steer properly - scary stuff!

Once through the cut we roared on our downwind motor-sail.  Our GPS log says we hit 8.2 knots along the way.

We arrived in Spanish Wells off the northern tip of Eleuthera at mid-day and as there were no available moorings (there’s only 8) we checked into the Yacht Haven marina.  Showers, laundry and free Wi-Fi – woo hoo!

Carol went off right away to the clinic to see a doctor where she was given more antibiotics.  The visit plus the drugs - $34 – that’s cheap, not even worth claiming.

The ladies got going on the mountain of laundry.

Friday 25th March
One mooring has become available and John was ready to go get it.  We rented a golf cart to take the ladies shopping before they left.



Bilbo left and we settled in for another night in the marina – not so bad at all.

Saturday 26th March
Another mooring has become available so we settle up at the marina and head the ½ mile down the cut to the mooring field.


We then got to see the waterfront there which is much more like something you would see in the US than the Bahamas with many fishing boats.


In the afternoon I went for a dinghy ride up the cut to the ocean at the other end of the two islands that seem to be referred to generally as Spanish Wells.  I bought what I thought was some fresh grouper (over 2lbs).  However, it certainly made me feel very bad during the night.

Sunday 27th March
Buddy’ coat was getting thick again and he was panting all the time so I got out the old clippers and gave him another amateur cut.  After a bath too he really looked comical.


Monday 28th March
I was supposed to have gone on the fast ferry to Harbour Island with John and Rejeanne but at the last minute someone told me that if I left the dinghy where I thought I had safely tied it up it would be squashed by the ferry.  It was good I heeded the warning because they were sooo right. 


The dinghy would have been crushed by that big underwater thingy and the dock.
By the time I put it in a safe place the gangplank was up and they wouldn’t let me on – sigh!  I got my fair back and John and Rejeanne, although they enjoyed it said I didn’t miss a whole lot.

Tuesday 29th March
Needed propane so I took a dinghy ride to the closest point and then got a ride from Dennis (never found out his last name) who ferried me to the propane place, the supermarket, back to the propane place and back to the dinghy in his golf cart.  Saved me a lot of lugging a propane tank for some distance.

Wednesday 30th March
Just pottering around the boat.

Thursday 31st March
Another trip to the clinic with Carol who is still under the weather.  But she felt better after seeing the doctor.
We had a pow wow with Bilbo and tomorrow we are heading out and a big long trip to Great Harbour Cay.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Exploring by car and then heading north

Wednesday, February 23rd
Joy of joys!  We can get showers here at the Long Island Breeze Resort and Wifi.  Goodbye sponge baths – at least for the next few days.

Just learned about another earthquake in Christchurch.  At least we will be able to e-mail  John and Jane and make sure they are O.K. 

Thursday, February 24th
Lynton took Buddy for his walk and went to look for the other grocery store that eluded us yesterday.  He was successful and they had frozen fish.  Tuna fillets were $4.40 each while tilapia (cheaper than cheap in the States) was $12.00.  We took the tuna.

The resort restaurant cooked up pizzas to order, which were excellent.  The music – not so much.

Friday, February 25th

The wind is up and we are bouncing around like a cork!  Decided to stay on the boat all day and avoid the drenching trip to the shore.  We have rented a car for 3 days to travel around and see the sights on the island.

Saturday, February 26th

Got on the road just after 10:00 a.m. and proceeded south.  At ‘land’s end’ there is a lovely beach (Gordon’s Beach) where we ate our sandwiches and looked at the water.


We visited various attractions on the way back, first being Clarence Town (the capital).  All the towns are very small, but very well-kept.

There are some very old and interesting churches there.


The second stop was the blue hole at Deans.

Picture courtesy of Rejeanne

This is a sink hole (663 feet deep) in the middle of shallow water.  John and Lynton went snorkeling.

Picture courtesy of Rejeanne
Picture courtesy of Rejeanne

The white thing in the middle is a floating platform with lines going down to the bottom as part of the international deep diving competitions they have.
 

The most spectacular visit was to the caves at Hamilton’s.  It took about 40 minutes to walk through them and back.  (Buddy came too).


 
 These whorls in the roof were caused by the swirling water when the caves were flooded with seawater eons ago.


Some of the cavities are filled with tiny bats.


In fact there are four different species of bats in the caves.


The stalagmite/stalactite formations are dramatic.


Our guide was Leonard Cartwright whose ancestors were the loyalists who opted to stay on the island.  The caves were originally occupied by the Lucayan Indians (around 42,000 of them) who were mostly killed off by disease brought in by Christopher Columbus and those that followed. 

According to history, a lot of them committed suicide rather than be taken as slaves. 

This is a carving thought to be around Chris’s time.


The caves can now be used as shelter in case of a hurricane blowing through.

Sunday, February 27th
The north island is prettier than the south.  Walked along a secluded beach and then on to the C.C.’s  monument, along 4 km of hellish road.  By the time we reached the base of the monument, the front driver’s side headlight lay hanging out of its socket!

The monument itself was quite impressive


but the inscription on it seemed somewhat ironic. 


























Who came up with that one?

Next stop was for a cold Kalik (Bahamian beer) at beautiful beach bar and restaurant run by the Stella Maris Resort.


Then back to the boat for supper.

Monday, February 28th
Off to another luxurious resort at Cape Santa Maria where we were told there was some good snorkeling.  On the way there, stopped off at a new roadside restaurant with another gorgeous view of the water


and had a bite of lunch.

Snorkeling done, it was time to set off for the Thompson Bay Club for a buffet supper prepared by a local Bahamian woman.  It was an excellent buffet of conch, lobster, fish etc.


This lady is a sea shell artist.  The local fishermen bring back exotic conch shells which she cleans and polishes.  Rejeanne bought a beautiful one from ($50 but worth every penny).

The dinghy ride back to our respective boats was not exactly a picnic!  It was pitch black and half way across the bay, the wind picked up.  It is quite difficult trying to find your boat in the dark.

We set off back to Georgetown tomorrow morning.

Tuesday, March 1st
Started off at 7:30 a.m. along with at least 10 other boats.  We left gathering clouds behind us and sailed into blue skies and sunshine.

Arrived back at Georgetown at around 2:30 p.m., just in time to do another load of washing before leaving tomorrow.

Wednesday, March 2nd
It looks as though the high winds are going to arrive earlier than expected, so we will not be leaving after all, but will move back over to Stocking Island where there is better protection (Chris Parker is forecasting 30 knot winds with gusts up to 35 knots.)

In the afternoon there was supposed to be a pet parade followed by fries and hamburgers donated by the owners of the Indiantown Marina.  We took a ride over and shortly after we tied up at the beach, this handsome fella appeared.


Apparently, he will feed from your hand. “Not from my hand, he won’t” was John’s comeback.  But the pet parade was completely washed out when the heavens opened and it chucked it down for about an hour – 1 ½ inches of rain fell.  Everyone got drenched, but the feast went ahead and we slowly dried out.

Later on, the music started – all the oldies but goodies as suited our age group.  So Rejeanne and I got the dancing going on the beach. 


Note from Lynton: I always new Carol had a gay side.

Eventually dragged the men in onto the act.

Unfortunately, on arriving back at the boat, found that the front hatch over the V-berth wasn’t fully closed and the bedding was soaked.  So I had to strip the bed and remake it!!!  The joys!!

Thursday, March 3rd

It’s windy all right!  Lynton got us anchored pretty close to shore luckily.  So it won’t be too bad taking Buddy for his walks.  It’s too choppy to leave the boat and go into Georgetown.

Friday, March 4th
Lynton decided to take the bull by the horns and dinghy into town.  Even standing up in the dinghy, he got soaking wet.  The wind is relentless!

Saturday, March 5th
It is the beginning of regatta week and the sailboat race around the harbor went ahead as planned.   Here’s a couple dueling it out as they pass us.


Wednesday, February 
The wind is supposed to die down tomorrow and they will be holding the sail race around Stocking Island.  Maybe we’ll be able to set off for Warderick Wells on Monday.  Unfortunately, every internet is down so we can’t get an up-to-date weather reading.

Sunday, March 6th
The wind suddenly stopped and the water is calm once more.  It looks like we’ll have a few days of weather window so that we can start making our way up to Warderick Wells,  an undersea (above too) wildlife sanctuary, so it’s off to town to stock up once more and drop off the garbage and recyclables.
Lynton feels he might be coming down with something (cold or ‘flu) so we’ll have to see how he’s doing tomorrow.

Monday, march 7th
Well, he doesn’t feel any worse, so we’ve decided to press on. 
After rolling around on the ocean side of Great Exuma Island for several hours, the last part of the trip is on dead calm shallow water producing this bizarre image of the boat’s bow shadow.


Our first stop is White Point on Great Guana Cay.  It has a beautiful white beach, just for Buddy and we are anchored very close to it.

Picture courtesy of Rejeanne

Tuesday, March 8th
Up at 6:15 a.m. again.  There are mooring cans at Warderick Wells which have to be reserved in advance.  We can’t get in today, but are on the list for tomorrow so we have decided to anchor at Staniel Cay.  Went into town for lunch and get a couple of grocery items.  On the way back, stopped to see the rays and nurse sharks feeding next to the pier.

Picture courtesy of Rejeanne

Picture courtesy of Rejeanne
John and Lynton went to snorkel once more at the Thunderball grotto.

Wednesday, March 9th
The wind has been howling all night.  Picked up about 7:00 p.m. yesterday.  It is supposed to stay like this for the day and then calm down again tomorrow.

The day was not without its nail-biting moments.  First of all, John couldn’t haul up his anchor and finally had to dive down to it.  It was firmly lodged into a hole under a rock and he managed to get it out with difficulty.
It was a brisk sail up to Warderick Wells.  Both boats had a fight with the mooring cans.  The wind and the current were both so strong and John and I, at the front of our respective boats both lost our boat hooks.  Ours fell in half and floated away.  John’s sank!  A kind cruiser came and helped us attach the boat to the can.  It is absolutely gorgeous here.

Lynton went to help John retrieve his hook from the bottom and were greeted by two  large fish.  (Too bad it’s a sanctuary here – no fishing!).  Sometime later, two dinghiers found and returned our wandering hook.

Thursday, March 10th
The wind has calmed and it is another lovely day.  We had little visitors aboard the boat this morning looking for handouts.


When we went ashore to register the birds on the deck of the offices expect to be fed.





Friday, March 11th
We had quite a downpour this morning as the front came through.  But once it stopped, it turned into “another bloody lovely day”, to quote a line from the movie ‘White Mischief’.  Went for a walk on the island up Boo Boo hill where cruisers leave their boat names on pieces of flotsam and jetsam.


On the way we came across a hermit crab trying to escape from us into the mangroves.



More beautiful views from the top of the hill.



Went to look at the blow holes which scared us out of our wits with each blow.  Although no water came out someone had put a coconut down one of them and it popped out.

The water was churning from the effects of the front and we got drenched yet again getting back to the boat.